You want a real-deal Labrador Retriever puppy, not a mystery “Lab-ish” mix with a sales pitch? Good. Labs are incredible dogs—smart, steady, goofy—and they deserve better than sketchy listings and fake promises.
Let’s cut through the fluff and figure out how to spot an original, purebred Labrador puppy before you hand over your money. Spoiler: it takes more than looking for a wagging tail and big brown eyes.
Know the Three Official Lab Colors (and What’s Fishy)
Purebred Labradors come in three standard colors: black, yellow, and chocolate. That’s it.
No merle, no spotted, no blue.
- Black: Most common, deep solid black coat.
- Yellow: Can range from pale cream to rich fox-red, but still “yellow” in the registry.
- Chocolate: Warm brown shades, from milk to dark chocolate.
Seeing “rare silver Lab”? FYI: many registries don’t recognize silver as a standard color. Silver often links to diluted genes from other breeds.
IMO, if a breeder pushes “rare” colors and charges extra, run faster than a Lab chasing a tennis ball.
Coat and Markings: What’s Normal
- Coat: Short, dense, and water-resistant. It feels slightly hard, not fluffy like a Golden’s.
- Markings: Small white spot on the chest can happen, but huge white patches, ticking, or brindle patterns aren’t typical.
- Nose and eyes: Black and yellow Labs usually have black noses; chocolates have brown noses. Eyes should be brown or hazel—never bright blue in a purebred Lab.
Check the Classic Lab Build
A purebred Lab has a specific shape, even as a pup.
They won’t look like a Greyhound with a Lab head or a blocky Rottweiler in yellow.
- Head and muzzle: Broad skull, moderate stop, and a strong, not pointy muzzle.
- Ears: Medium-sized, set slightly back, hanging close to the head.
- Body: Deep chest, level topline, solid bone, athletic but not lanky.
- Tail: The famous otter tail—thick at the base, tapers to a point, covered in dense hair, carried level with the back when alert.
- Feet: Compact and webbed—great swimmers’ gear.
Field vs. Show Lines
Both are purebred, but they look different:
- Show (conformation) Labs: Heavier build, blockier heads, thicker coats.
- Field (working) Labs: Leaner, more athletic, slightly longer legs, lots of drive.
Different vibe, same breed. Don’t let a lighter build fool you—just make sure everything else checks out.
Temperament: The Labrador Personality Test
Labradors come preloaded with charm.
They’re friendly, confident, people-obsessed, and usually unfazed by new sounds or surfaces. Even as puppies, they show curiosity over caution. What you want to see:
- Wiggles toward people, not away.
- Playful, confident approach to new toys or noises.
- Food motivation (Labs rarely ignore snacks, lol).
- Gentle mouth by default—Labs should not clamp down hard when playing.
Red flags:
- Extreme shyness or fear of handling.
- Persistent aggression or guarding behavior at 7–10 weeks.
- Total disinterest in people.
Any breed can have outliers, but a classic Lab temperament screams “buddy for life.”
Paperwork That Actually Matters
Papers don’t make a dog purebred, but they help you verify the lineage and health. If a breeder mumbles, “We don’t do papers,” that’s a hard no.
- Registration: AKC, KC (UK), CKC (Canada), ANKC, etc.
Verify parents’ registration numbers online if possible.
- Pedigree: A 3–5 generation pedigree or proof of parentage. Not all champs, but at least consistent Labrador lines.
- Microchip: Ask if the pup is chipped and registered to the breeder before transfer.
Health Testing: Non-Negotiable
A good breeder tests the parents for common Lab issues and shares results. Look for:
- Hips and elbows: OFA or PennHIP certifications.
- Eyes: Annual eye exam by a veterinary ophthalmologist (CAER/CERF).
- Genetic tests: At minimum: EIC (Exercise-Induced Collapse), PRA-prcd (Progressive Retinal Atrophy), CNM (Centronuclear Myopathy).
Bonus: HNPK, SD2.
No tests = no thanks. Health testing protects you and the pup. IMO, it’s the bare minimum for responsible breeding.
Meet the Breeder—and the Parents
Trust your gut.
Good breeders act like proud nerds about their dogs. They answer questions, show you records, and ask you about your lifestyle (they want the right homes!). What to ask:
- Can I see both parents or at least the dam? Photos and health certs for the sire if he’s off-site.
- What health tests have you done?
Can I see the reports?
- How do you socialize your puppies? (Early neurological stimulation, household noises, car rides—gold star.)
- When can I take the puppy home? (Never before 8 weeks—earlier is a red flag.)
- Do you provide a contract, health guarantee, and return policy?
Environment check:
- Clean, safe area with toys and enrichment.
- Puppies look well-fed, clean eyes, no mats or crusty noses.
- Breeder doesn’t pressure you to pay today “or lose your chance.” Big nope.
Price, Scams, and Social Media Red Flags
Quality Lab puppies usually cost more because testing, vet care, and proper raising cost money. If one ad is half the price of everyone else, ask why—then keep scrolling. Watch for:
- “Rare color” upcharges.
- No phone calls, only DMs or wire transfers.
- Stock photos or reused pics across different posts.
- Refusal to video chat or show the pup live.
Deposit Etiquette
Reasonable deposits with a written receipt are normal. Deposits before litter is born can happen, but only with a legit contract.
If someone asks for full payment before you even see the puppy, that’s your cue to ghost.
At-Home Visual Checklist (When You Meet the Pup)
Bring this quick-hit list when you visit:
- Coat: Dense, short, water-resistant. Solid color (within black/yellow/chocolate).
- Tail: Thick, otter-like, carried level—never curly or spitz-like.
- Head: Broad skull, kind eyes, clean ears.
- Body: Balanced, sturdy bone. No extreme narrowness or wobbliness (some puppy wobble is normal, not staggering).
- Bite: Scissor bite preferred; severe under/overbite is a red flag.
- Movement: Confident gait, no limping or bunny hopping.
- Temperament: Social, curious, responsive to your voice and treats.
Age-Appropriate Vet Work
By 8 weeks, most breeders should provide:
- First vaccination record.
- Deworming schedule.
- General health check from a vet.
- Feeding and care instructions.
No records?
That pup might come with “surprises” you don’t want.
DNA Testing: The Tie-Breaker
Still unsure? Do a DNA test after you bring pup home. It won’t replace good breeder practices, but it can confirm breed composition and some health risks.
Don’t rely on it as your only filter though—plenty of headaches avoided by choosing a solid breeder first.
FAQ
Are silver Labs purebred?
Some registries allow silver Labs to register as “chocolate,” but silver isn’t a recognized standard color. Many breeders believe the dilution came from crossbreeding. If you want a breed-standard Labrador, stick to black, yellow, or chocolate.
What’s the best age to pick up a Labrador puppy?
Eight to ten weeks.
Before 8 weeks, puppies miss critical social learning from their litter. After 10 weeks can be fine, but confirm ongoing socialization.
How big should a purebred Lab puppy be?
At 8 weeks, many Lab pups weigh around 10–15 pounds, give or take. Lines vary, so don’t obsess over the exact number—focus on healthy body condition, bright eyes, and energy.
Do Labs need health tests if they look fine?
Yes.
You can’t see hip dysplasia or EIC by looking. Responsible breeders screen parents to reduce risk. Your future self (and your wallet) will thank you.
Can a Lab have a bit of white on the chest and still be purebred?
Yes.
A small white patch can occur in purebred Labs. Large white areas, ticking, or brindle patterns aren’t typical of the breed standard.
Field Lab vs. Show Lab—who makes the better pet?
Both can be fantastic.
Field lines usually bring more energy and drive; show lines often feel a touch calmer indoors. Match the pup’s energy to your lifestyle. FYI: all Labs need exercise and training, period.
Conclusion
You don’t need a PhD to spot an original Labrador puppy—just a good eye, solid questions, and the courage to walk away from red flags.
Prioritize standard colors, classic build, that friendly Lab vibe, and real health testing with transparent paperwork. Choose the breeder as carefully as the puppy. Do that, and you’ll land a true Lab: goofy, loyal, and ready to share your couch and your snacks—probably more of your snacks than you planned, IMO.
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